Because of their relative lack of protection from the elements, bonsai care can be quite difficult. The shallowness of bonsai containers affords roots little protection and certainly little water and nutrient reserve. Consequently, proper watering of bonsai is practically an art in itself. Some species can handle and even prefer short dry periods, while others require near-constant moisture. Heavy watering does however make the trees more susceptible to fungal infections and "root rot". Sun, heat and wind exposure can quickly dry a bonsai tree to the point of drought, and most trees must be afforded some protection from these elements. Allowing the bonsai soil to dry out completely is one of the fastest ways to kill the plant, for even a little bit of time in completely dry soil will cause massive damage that is very often fatal. Various evergreens do not display outward signs of drying and damage until long after the damage is done, and may even appear green and healthy despite having an entirely dead root system.

Bonsai are generally repotted and root-pruned every few years. This prevents them from becoming pot-bound and encourages the growth of new feeder roots, allowing the tree to absorb moisture more efficiently.
There are nearly as many opinions about soil mixes and fertilization as there are bonsai artists. Bonsai soil is primarily a loose, fast-draining mix of components, usually a mixture of coarse sand or gravel, fired clay pellets, and an organic component such as peat or compost. There are various thoughts as to proportion of these elements; some artists work with a standard 1:1:1 ratio for all trees, others vary depending on tree species, age, or climate. Some artists omit the organic component entirely, preferring to fertilize manually, in such cases a soil such as akadama is used. Various fertilizers exist for bonsai, and some artists maintain a very strict feeding schedule, reducing nitrogen content later in the season to discourage new growth. Others rely on various vegetable fertilizers to encourage growth early in the season, although the long-term efficacy of this approach has not been conclusively demonstrated.

Contrary to popular conception, most bonsai are not indoor plants, and if kept indoors will most likely die. In fact, this is one of the best ways to kill them. Certain trees, particularly tropicals, will flourish if kept indoors; those of similar species to common houseplants like ficus and umbrella plant (schefflera) will thrive indoors, while those based on outdoor shrubs or trees (most confiers, maples, larch, etc) require a cold dormant period in which to store energy for spring growth. These outdoor trees must be protected from wind and drying effects in the winter, but also must be kept cold and in a generally darker environment. In-ground cold frames, unheated garages, porches, and the like are commonly used by hobbyists and artists.

Inexpensive bonsai trees often sold in chain stores and gift shops are derisively referred to as "mallsai" by experienced bonsai growers, and are usually weak or dead trees by the time they are sold. Often these bonsai are mass produced and are rooted in thick clay from a field in China. This clay is very detrimental to the bonsai, as it literally suffocates the roots and promotes root-rot. Very little if any shaping is done on mallsai, and often the foliage is crudely pruned with little finesse to resemble a tree. Due to the conditions under which they are transported and sold, they are often inadequately watered and are kept in poor soil, usually a clump of sphagnum moss or the aforementioned clay with a layer of gravel glued to the top, which leaves them susceptible to both drying and fungal infections. Some "mallsai" can be resuscitated with proper care and immediate repotting, although this is reportedly rare. This top layer of glued-on gravel should be immediately removed once the bonsai is purchased, and the plant should be repotted in a good bonsai soil such as akadama.

Most nursery stock trees can be grown as bonsai with varying degrees of success. While Japanese varieties of juniper and maple are usually seen as the most suited for traditional styles, other North American, Korean and Siberian species of various trees will also work quite well and are especially suited for colder climates, while some south Asian, south American and African species lend themselves well to tropical cultivation or growth in warmer climates.

Other times, trees collected from the wild are cultivated as bonsai. Known among enthusiasts as Yamadori, These specimens are highly prized and are often already many hundreds of years old when they are harvested from nature. Very great care must be taken when collecting Yamadori, as it is very easy to damage the tree's root system (often irreparably) by digging it up. Trees that are to be collected must be analyzed with careful scrutiny to determine whether they may be removed safely. Trees with a shallow or partially exposed root system are ideal candidates for extraction.

There is a legal aspect to removing trees, so the enthusiast should take all steps necessary to ensure permission from the owner of the land before attempting to harvest Yamadori.

Various evergreens do not display outward signs of drying and damage until long after the damage is done, and may even appear green and healthy despite having an entirely dead root system.

Contrary to popular conception, most bonsai are not indoor plants, and if kept indoors will most likely die. In fact, this is one of the best ways to kill them.

Yep thats the way I killed my first one. Just wanted to say thanks for the forum and am looking forward to trying to grow my own this year. I just got the book Bonsai School and am looking forward to learning more. Thanks for the help.

Parfore

Hi Dave ; I make my own soil mixes . I use Haydite heavy with some things . I use turface , sand , granite, charcoal bits , coir, DM flour , Neem cake (ground into powder) , 100% pine bark (some ground into soil ) and ground egg shells .

I'm an indoor's grower . Tropicals trees , cactus , herbs , hybrids house plants , tropical vines .

Rosebud

hi, I'm a newbee starting from scratch. I'm not sure if I'm cut out for this...still am willing to learn and will appreciate help from any corner!:D

thanks you >>>>

interesting, im glad I read this!

I open this really late reply to member Abargs who made a post in july 08. The post is interesting in that her position on bonsai is very much parallel to most of the folks who try or want to try bonsai, her post has been lost for almost a year, but I hope she sees this reply And will post again telling us how she made out and would she like to share her efforts with us here. I really hope so!:knuddel:

so if your roots are showing should you repot

so if your roots are showing should you repot

Hi Dave,
These are the very important information you have shared here. Really this is too difficult to take care of a bonsai tree, but your process can help me a lot in future to take care of my bonsai trees.

I have a serissa snow rose bonsai, that ive just bought and got back to my house a few days ago. The past few days ive noticed that some of the leaves are turning yellow in colour. Is that bad ?? what can i do to help it ?? and how are some ways to prevent it ??

id appreaciate any help people can offer me thx :)

Luke400o.

:hello:

I was always fascinated by bonsai plantation. So, I bought one and without determining the climate it must be kept into, I fed it with water. Recently, I have noticed some sort of fungi on the plant and thanks to your post I very well know the reason now.
I hope to do better next time with my bonsai.:(
Anyways,…thanks for the post. :shakehand