Shaping and dwarfing are accomplished through a few basic but exacting techniques. The small size of the tree and the dwarfing of foliage are maintained through a consistent regimen of pruning of both the leaves and the roots. Various methods must be employed, as each species of tree exhibits different budding behavior. Additionally, some pruning must be done seasonally, as most trees require a dormancy period and do not grow roots or leaves at that time; improper pruning can weaken or kill the tree.

Most species suitable for bonsai can be shaped by wiring. Copper or aluminium wire is wrapped around branches and trunks, holding the branch in place or shape until it eventually lignifies and maintains the desired shape (at which point the wire should be removed). Some species do not lignify strongly, or are already too stiff/brittle to be shaped and are not conducive to wiring, in which case shaping must be accomplished primarily through pruning.

Hello,
Pines grow slowly in tropical Hawaii. This photo report shows a wiring session of an older Japanese Red Pine. I germinated the seed in 1963 or 1964 and have trained it since. Red Pines are less common than Black Pines. They naturally grow in the clean air of the mountains of Japan while Black Pines usually grow at sea level. Red Pines have soft needles and are difficult to grow in areas with smog or air pollution.
The tree is almost 40 years old but it hasn't been wired for the last 10-15 years or so. Whereas tropical trees are usually trained by creative pruning and reduction-building techniques, temperate climate trees are traditionally trained by wiring. It's necessary to check trees being trained by wiring as the wires can bite into the bark and cause unsightly marks. Between wiring sessions the trees should be allowed to grow strongly. Some bonsai growers wire, remove periodically, and immediately rewire the tree to keep it continually in training. Such a tree is weak and develops slowly.

Thanks.